Day 12 Lyon Centre

Famous citizens of Lyon

Today was to  be a rest day but I have discovered that my brilliant Shimano sandals are really good to walk in for I have walked many kilometres. After the morning rain it turned into a beautiful day despite "la meteo" which said that it was to be "thundery showers" ( I translate) I set off to take the tourist bus around the city "hop on and off as often as you like" however the next bus is 90 minutes behind. How often would you hop off? It was great. I would never have discovered this much in a month of random cycling. Headphones provided and choose from six languages. At one point I wondered if I had stumbled into Italy by mistake for I was surrounded by "va bene"
What have I learned about Lyon?

Cathedrale de St Jean

It has a surprisingly small population of around half a million people in the city itself but many many more in the outskirts. It was an important Roman city which was the capital of Gaul. It suffered badly during the revolution. It sits on both the Saone and Rhone which flow together to become the only slightly augmented Rhone. Its reputation for its cuisine comes from "les meres" the ladies who were cooks to the wealthy Lyonnais then started restaurants at the start of the 20th century. I like the place a lot and intend to return sometime soon for a more extended visit. If you wish to check my facts or read further then click here 
The tourist cruise on the Saone wasn't up to the same standard and I understood exactly the same amount of commentary in French as I did in English. Pity the poor Italians who were left looking at the wrong side of the boat. As Sebastien said on my return " 0 - 0 "
I have had a great time in Lyon. I will definitely return. I am rested - the legs are ready for the next stage and  I look forward to seeing the sights of the valley of the Rhone that I have previously flown past on "l'autoroute du soleil"
The plan such as it is: Lyon to Valence (110 kms ish)

Brasserie Georges

Valence to Orange (110 kms ish)

Orange to Montpellier (110 kms ish)

Montpellier to Beziers ou Narbonne

I have got a full week to get there. My inclination at the moment is to stay 2 days at each stop and have only a short hop at the end. However plan b is to get to Montpellier as soon as possible and spend some time there.

"On vira" -  we'll see!

Day 11 Villefranche to Lyons

I was excited and just a little bit apprehensive when I set off to cycle into the centre of Lyon, France's second biggest (busiest) city.I hadn't been going for long enough to warm up my legs when the lorries started to s

woop by closer and closer as if to say "what are you doing here on a bike?" However after a few scary kilometres the road turned into a series of satellite towns with their town centres and traffic lights. Before long I was freewheeling down an exhilaratingly steep slope to the edge of what I thought was the river Rhone but which turned out to be the Saone. Later I discovered that the two rivers on which Lyon stands proudly rhyme.

Very soon I was on to cycle lanes and as the traffic got busier so did the width of what was now a bus and cycle lane. At one point I had half of the width of the road to myself with no buses in sight.I continued to marvel at the sights and sounds of this great city and I had time and space to look around as I made my way into the centre. when I stopped to ask the way to the 2nd arrondisement ( I had booked the Victoria hotel on the internet the night before) "This is the 2nd arrondisement" he said.

View over the city to Mont Blanc in the distance

Within a few minutes I had found the "office du tourisme" where I was given a plan of the city with my hotel marked. It was just as well because I found the two rivers which are equally wide and to my new eye indistinguishable difficult to use as markers.

Hotel Victoria

I arrived at the door of the Hotel Victoria about 10.30 to be warmly greeted by Sebastien. My room wasn't ready but it could be in an hour (check in was supposed to be 3p.m.) I was offered a place to leave my bike when I said that I wanted to go into the city centre to explore. Instead I left my panniers and cycled into the centre which was not far away and bike friendly.

Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourviere

 I decided to just ride about to get a feel for it all but it was just too big. I could see a landmark high on the hill (Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourviere) on the other side of the Saone so I cycled over "pont Bonaparte" into old Lyon. Quite by chance I had happened upon a concentration of the sights of Lyon. I parked my bike by the "Cathedrale St-Jean" and spent some time meandering through the narrow streets of "Vieux Lyon" It was good to have a while to sit down so I did, on the steps of the cathedral to listen to an impromptu concert for classical guitar and violin (you get a better class of busking in France)

My budget room

I returned to the hotel to be met by Laura. Her ready smile and welcoming attitude added to that of Sebastien from before suggested that I had chosen my value hotel well. On reaching my freshly renovated fifth floor room via the lift I promptly fell asleep on the exceptionally large and comfortable bed which dominated the pleasingly decorated  room.

Pauline 2011?

My rest day hadn't been too restful. I was knackered. However a siesta and a shower later and I was ready for some more exploring.I ended up in "la Place Carnot" All of life was there from children supervised by eager parents in the cordonned off play park area, to down and outs sleeping off the afternoon in the shade to busy people busying there way to wherever busy people go all surrounded by cafes and brasseries filled with "les Lyonnais" chatting in the evening sunshine. I decided that I deserved "un Ricard" to sip as I watched the world go by. There were some strange sights none more so than the lady dressed in her finery who was getting off a scooter to meet friends for dinner. I really had chosen well for just round the corner was a series of "chain hotels" all charging double or more.  I was right across from "la Brasserie Georges" which is a Lyon institution. As I passed by on my way to eat more modestly in a Pizzeria recommended by Laura I could see literally hundreds of diners being waited upon by waiters all wearing long aprons. Pauline and I will return one day soon to share this experience I hope.
The Pizzeria was excellent and when I mentioned my trip "le Patron" announced to the other diners that the gentleman over there is cycling from Calais to Narbonne. Spontaneous applause and cries of "Bravo" etc ensued. I was quite embarrassed.

I am writing this sitting on my fifth floor balcony and the morning rain is transforming itself into watery sunshine. More exploring beckons.

Day 9 Dijon to Chalon sur Saone ( la Genete near Tournus)

Having enjoyed a “bonsai petit dejeuner” I set off bright eyed and bushy tailed in the rain again. The busy lanes of Conforama and laPeyre  soon gave way to the Grand Crus Route which wound its way from wine village to wine village. The wine villages were all very pretty but nowhere is attractive in the rain so I put my head down and made some kilometres.

Nuits Saint Georges came along at about coffee time but it was hissing down so I carried on for a bit. The great names of burgundy wines are all produced on a fairly slender hillside crammed in between the railway line and the motorway and the hills on a strip of land about 1 km wide. When I eventually stopped as the rain did I was chatting to two vignerons about the coming vendange ( quinze jours) they queried my order of a coffee saying that ik would be better with a white wine like them (this is 11.00 am) When I said that I didn’t want to be drunk in charge of a bike they said that the bike would ride itself. I was tempted  but stuck to coffee.

lunch stop - to eat my quiche and chocolate eclaire

As the rain eased the burgundy hillside eased into the flat wooded land leading to Chalon sur Saone. I realised from the map that it was a big city but I was not ready for just how busy and frenetic it turned out out be. I quickly gave up on my plan to stay in the centre and headed for the edge of town. The sign for the F1 hotel heading into an impenetrable retail park did not seem inviting so I decided to keep on heading south and see what would transpire. It has turned out to bed a bad mistake because I have ended up in a second rate hotel where I have been systematically “fleeced”

“It’s all part of life’s rich tapestry,”and it is but to be avoided if possible and it was possible. The trouble with being Scots is we are born mean. The nice lady at the “office du tourisme” told me what the going rate was but I wouldn’t accept it. I ended up paying it for somewhere very inferior. I will try to learn to be less mean but it is well ingrained. Meanwhile in the unlikely event that you are tempted to stay at “la petite auberge” in la Genete – don’t!

I have decided to “go with the flow” a bit more this week. The current plan is to ditch the plan and go into the centre of Lyon, Frances’s second city, for a couple of days assuming I can find a hotel where Sybil Fawlty is n’t in charge.

Should I stick to the smaller roads?

Now that I know that I can make it I can spend more time enjoying the sights and exploring a bit off the beaten track rather than just focussing on getting to the next planned stop over.(maybe but it will be against my nature entirely)

Day 10 Chalon sur Saone to Villefranche sur Saone

All this "sur Saone" stuff you would think that I would catch a glimpse of the Saone but as far as I am aware I saw it once when I crossed it in incredibly busy Chalon s S and again just before I crossed it into incredibly busy Villefranche s S.

 Today began badly and ended well with mostly good bits in between. Having not slept very well for the noise of whatever was running around making scraping sounds in the attic above my bed I was looking forward to a good breakfast for my €6. I couldn't believe it when I was presented with a pot of coffee with hot milk and two pieces of toast with two butters and two jams. As I rode away into the morning sunshine I was determined to put it down to experience and not let it cast a cloud over an otherwise cloudless morning. However it was chilly and I soon had my waterproof jacket on to stay warm.

The countryside could have been Fife if the cattle hadn't all been horned and white. It reminded me of Balbirnie without the golf course and the posh hotel. As the morning wore on the countryside began to change from leafy and green to a bit more hilly and burned up and France in summer like. I was riding parallel to the motorway and route national and railway line which are all fairly close together following the valley of the Saone on a quieter but still lorry filled D933. I passed more cyclists today than on the whole of the rest of the trip including a female tourist who later sat at the table behind me at lunch. The etiquette appears to be to acknowledge other cyclists en route as subtly as possible - a little nod or a "bonjour" swallowed as it is uttered or the merest hint of a wave.  I was dying to turn round and ask her where she had been and where she was going and to share stories: however I decided that since she had parked next to my bike and since she could see that I was dressed as a cyclist if she wanted to swap stories she would speak to me. It didn't happen. She was a vegetarian so we wouldn't have had much in common to share anyway. I didn't really want to speak to her anyway.
You can guess why I stopped here ( apart from it being 12.00) It was a good omen.  The meal was as good as last night's was bad. The blackboard said (in French obviously) choice of two starters two main course wine included €12 it didn't sound bad. The tables were all laid out neatly and locals were already eating at 12.05. The menu was on the blackboard. Quiche salad or terrine forestiere followed by roti de porc or steak de foie persille.The extended family at the next table made me think of the family that I am missing at home. But you will all still be there when I get home "In Sha'allah". So after a really nice rose with my terrine and beautifully dressed salad I tucked into my parsley garnished liver steak which oozed blood but was as tender as can be served with creamed mash. Not my favourite but I watched the workers at the next table and decided that they would know what was goodso I tucked in.Delicious. not bad for €12 I thought then the cheese course came. A plate of five or six cheeses help yourself and all the bread you could want. Then dessert and yes "mousse au chocolat" was one of the choices but so were home made "tartes aux pommes" and then coffee. Incredible value and excellent simple food. Just what you hope for every time you stop.

Would I be able to pedal after such a meal? Yes after a few kms I was back in my familiar if somewhat pedantic groove. Villefranche s S  came at about 3pm but it was so busy that I couldn't conceive of staying the night and I didn't have the heart for heading back the way I had come on the opposite bank to find the F1 type hotels.

I stopped for a rest in one of the few central shaded areas and made a fundamental mistake - one that i haven't made since I began - I only unclipped one foot! I stopped at a bench and rested my unclipped foot on the bench still sitting on my remarkably comfortable Brooks saddle. after a short rest I decided to push off but my panniers caught on the bench and I didn't go and I couldn't put down my still clipped in right foot. It all happened in slow motion and I slowly toppled over onto my right knee/ankle/gears/brake lever.

Remarkably most of the above are fine. My knee is grazed but in full working condition showing no signs of swelling or seizing up as I write this. The bike seems to be fine - the gears are a bit noisier but nothing that a good clean won't fix. The handlebar tape is torn and the panniers scratched and dirty but I was very lucky. One moment's lack of thought could have brought this all to a premature conclusion. But it didn't and my reward is a nice Logis between Villefranche and Lyon in Beaujolais territory with air conditioning, a pool and a lovely terrace for tonight's meal for €5 more than last evening's disaster. I'll get back to F1's but it is nice to be up the ladder a couple of rungs.

I have begun to slip into a comfortable habit. Rise at 7am. Breakfast at 8am having washed and shaved. King of shaves is fantastic stuff. Two drops in the hand is all it takes to make your skin so oily it is virtually impossible to cut yourself. Gillette is heaved when I get home! On the road for 8.30 and spin gently at first until the legs warm up. Coffee stop is between 10.30 and 11.00 depending on terrain and availability. Lunch is between 12.00 and 1pm depending on whether it is to be sit down or boulangerie. On arrival at the hotel I wash out the top and shorts I have been wearing plus one other item and hang them to dry usually at the window. The various pieces of electronic equipment have to take their turn to be charged using my one 2pin adapter. first I transfer the day's photos and then I write my blog transferring it all to the net if wi fi is available and working. Dinner is at 8pm and I allow myself a carafe of wine, when I specify 50cls I get looks suggesting I need to contact AA.

Today has been sunny from morning till now. It has been a good day and I am in excellent fettle all around. it is still my intention to brave the centre of Lyon for a couple of days r and r before setting off down the Rhone Valley to ....... I am not entirely sure - eventually Raissac but maybe a few days in Montpellier?

Day 8 Chatillon to Dijon

I can't believe that it is the start of week two already. To be honest I couldn't have done today's trip a week ago. It became a pretty grueling 70 miler.It all began well enough - I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the hotel Maggiot then headed to the nearby Lidl to collect supplies of cereal bars. Incredibly I was able to walk straight to them for the store was arranged exactly as the Glenrothes store. I had a notion that today was going to be difficult and it didn't take long to get going.   

My route today was a bit all over the place because there was no obviously simple way to avoid the route national and it's lorries. The start of the route involves 25kms through a forest with no villages or anything else marked. It was the D16 out of the centre of Chatillon. Could I find it? Eventually after a few false starts I asked a local. Bad mistake. He obviously didn't know but wouldn't let me go until he had "helped" some more. He insisted on taking me to "un anglais" whom he knew although we were not having any language difficulties. He didn't know either but produced a better scale map which showed that my first route an hour previously had been correct! So I was off an hour later than planned. When I got to what should have been the turning there was no mention of D16 or anywhere else save "monument de la foret" Should I risk it? Ok I thought it is heading in the right general direction. After a few kms a roadside marker said D16 and I smiled inwardly. The road was straight but very up and down and the forest was dense. I didn't pass another human being or any other live animal for 25kms. It was rather unnerving so I got my i pod out.

20 kms in and I came to the monument. Quite impressive as you can see. This was at a T junction but via michelin had no advice as to left or right. Oh dear. It went from bad to worse and I eventually abandoned my instructions and headed for a more frequented route. I had taken off my cycle helmet for the first time going through the forest but on the first fast descent I felt naked and stopped to put it back on. Reaching the D971 involved a lot of climbing and descending and climbing to reach the route that I had tried to avoid which was practically empty! The odd lorry went by but nothing to worry about. By now the worry was becoming where I would fill up my rapidly diminishing water bottles. It was becoming apparent that the reason there were no villages marked on the map was because there were no villages.
It was around 2.00 when I got to the village of Molloy.

There was a rather grand looking hotel and through the window I could see that someone was eating but, it was starting to rain again, I needed a rest and my water bottles were empty. I was warmly welcomed and discovered that it is still possible get a coffee for a euro somewhere in France. I chatted to the locals at the bar one of whom had attended a bagpiping competition near Glasgow (that could have been Fort William or even further afield. Yesterday someone asked me if Manchester was in Scotland.) They were friendly and we shook hands as they left. I am starting to get the hang of the ettiquette of bars and cafes.The patron informed me that Dijon was only 35kms and so I set off in good spirits.

Anticipating the finish line before I got there was a major mistake that I will try not to repeat. A series of punishing hills, the incredibly busy centre of Dijon and a sudden lack of energy conspired to make the rest of the afternoon a bit of a trial. I finally arrived at the hotel district of Dijon sud at 6pm pleased to have discovered a new chain but glad of a shower and some food. The Bonsai hotel is a mixture of all of the other hotels with some interesting twists of its own. First of all it is priced at F1 levels but its wi fi works!! It has electronic cards to open the doors so no need to memorise six digit codes nand it has an en suite and quite a big bedroom. The biggest difference was that the receptionist was genuinely helpful and showed me where I could stow my bike for the night inside.

I ate in LeClerc tonight for less the €10 including a beer and all the vegetables you can eat ( which is quite a few when you have been in the saddle for eight hours.) I can't say that I was totally comfortable but my rear was remarkably ok after that length of time.

I have finally crossed the less interesting parts of Northern France and reached the start of the wine trail and hopefully better weather. Since I set off a week ago it has rained ever day save two. I have seen the sun on only two days and the temperature has breached 30 degrees only once. The guy I was chatting to at Molloy said it was the worst summer weather ever.

Tomorrow is another day. I am sure it will be sunny. I know that it will be fun and I know that I can do it. I saw signs to Nuits Saint George. Degustation here I come. I wonder if you can be drunk in charge of a velo in France. Somehow I doubt it!

Day 7 Troyes to Chatillon sur Seine

 What a surprise awaited me when I came down to breakfast – there were people eating breakfast and cars in the car park. When I retired at 10pm (sad old git) there were two cars and a van in the car park. They must all have arrived from the autoroute in the night.

Another first occurred when an Englishman was trying to ask the receptionist for the hotel’s phone number for his return trip ( he could have easily found it in the F1 catalogue which was freely available)  and he had his phone poised and  at the ready but she couldn’t understand him so she looked to me for a translation service. Perked me up no end and I needed perking up because the rain had just started and the thunder was pretty loud and pretty nearby. I had a nice chat with another English couple who were heading off to St Moritz. The wife expressed interest in doing something similar to my trip saying she had been inspired. The expression on the husband’s face suggested that the inspiration wouldn’t last long – but I would be delighted to be proved wrong.

I set off in the rain and within 5 km I had my answer to the “where are all of the cyclists?” question of yesterday – they only come out on Sundays. Soon I was joined by a husband and wife who were out for a Sunday morning 60km ride. They politely slowed for a bit while we chatted but were soon heading into the distance on their carbon fibre steeds.

The road was predominantly flat as I followed the course of the river Seine crossing and recrossing it several times. The countryside began to change and I caught sight of the first vines of the trip on a chalky Champagne hillside. The Route Champagneoise suddenly became the Route Cremant 10 kms before Chatillon sur Seine.

I stopped for a coffee in Mussy sur Seine at mid day  and encountered a Dutch couple sitting outside in the rain ( there was a canopy) so I joined them and we chatted in French. Whilst we were sitting outside a local who needed his belt to hold his belly rather than his trousers up told me that when he was younger he cycled from Paris to Roubaix. (he must have been much younger) He was quite knowledgeable about my route and gave me a few useful tips including how to get to tonight’s hotel, Le Maggiot. From the outside it looked like an uninteresting box but inside there are large public spaces and a spacious terrace outside. The room and bathroom are very idiosyncratically French but spacious and more than adequate for my needs.

I arrived just as “le patron” was returning from his lunch. We came up the hill to the front door together and he welcomed me warmly to his hotel. He showed me where I could stow the super galaxy in the garage and suggested where best to place it so it would be out of sight and the wi fi connection worked first time. Quite a contrast with the impersonal and cramped F1 and only €10 more – food for thought.

It has been a good weekend. Friday was a lovely day off and Saturday and Sunday have been easy cycling days. It occurred to me that I am glad that my cycle computer doesn’t work anymore. I don’t really need to know what speed I am going at and what my average speed is. It is however far it is and I get there when I get there ( about 2pm today as it happens)

Day 6 Sezanne to Troyes

Day 6 Sezanne to Troyes

Rested, well breakfasted, and once again packed, I set out full of hope for an interesting and relatively easy day. I wasn’t disappointed. In fact Troyes surpassed my expectations. It was a truly magnificent city full of old timber framed buildings and narrow streets. It was cycle friendly too with its cycle lanes and signs allowing cyclists to cycle up one way streets.

The route from Sezanne to Troyes was flat. I was beginning to wonder what had happened to the flat part of northern France. This was it – La plaine Champenoise stretched as far as the eye can see only undulating gently. The other thought that kept striking me was, “Where are all the cyclists?” To date I have passed two tourists and a French cyclist out for his daily run. Not many in five days of cycling.

Today was great, I set off in a lovely 20 degrees which had reached 30 degrees by 11 and 36 degrees by the time I reached Troyes at lunch time. You would think that it would be far too hot and it is if you stop but while you are bowling along the air keeps you reasonably cool. The barrier cream seems to be doing its job and I am not too red. The bum cream is doing its job too and its not too red there either. ( how could he see? Think mirrors.) 

L'aube

canal du nord

It was a day of rivers and a canal. I crossed the river Aube twice the canal du Nord several times and the river Seine a few times as it wound through the villages.

la seine

On the way to my F1 hotel which as usual is set in the middle of the back of beyond of nowhere I passed a stark war memorial to the massacre of the whole of the village of Bucheres by the Nazis in World War 2. Women children and all of the men of the village were killed.

The rage of the sculptor seemed to pour from each letter of the inscription which read (translated to the best of my ability)

 “ This monument bears witness to Hitler’s crimes against a whole population men women and children savagely assassinated a whole live village in flames these crimes are inexplicable the French remember you”

 It didn’t half put my inability to find the F1 hotel into perspective.

There are no buses and I can’t face the thought of a 20 km round trip back into Troyes but it is definitely on the list for another visit.