Cordemais to Rennes

It is getting to be too much of a habit packing up a soaking wet tent with a steadily increasing  variety of wet clothes waiting to be dried.
My planned route was now abandoned and I had to work out a way to get back on the road to Rennes preferably  without retracing my steps.

I don't know what the original route would have been like but this has been my hardest day's cycling so far. To describe it as lumpy is an understatement. It was just a succession of steep hills both up and down. I didn't have to resort to my 28th gear (walking ) but that was only because the bike is too heavy to push.  I have arrived at a lovely municipal site on the outskirts of Rennes good facilities (and free wi fi) for less than 10 euros.

I plan a rest day and a visit to Rennes centre tomorrow.

 I think I might sleep tonight

Bretignolles to Cordemais

It rained most of the night, again, but the strong wind had dried everything by the time I packed the tent away (for all the difference it was to make).

The strong wind was almost behind as I went to explore St Gilles Croix de Vie and St Jean de Monts.

I didn't recognise either of them from our family camping holidays 25 years ago.

 In St Jean de Monts I nearly came a real cropper. I was sailing along the promenade when I hit a patch of sand which had been blown onto the piste. The front wheel started to go from under me and the weight of the front panniers made it worse but somehow I stayed upright and clipped in. But I was left shaking like a leaf and actively seeking a different route.
From my new route out of St Jean de Monts to the crossing of the Loire at Le Pellerin was uneventful but quick with a great wind at my back. The boat across the Loire is free. I met a Swiss couple on the boat who were cycling back to Switzerland. A quick 15kms and I would be set up by 3 o clock.

I should have known better. The camping was closed for upgrading work so I was advised by the municipal worker. Fortunately he was able to tell me where the nearest open camp site was - only another 8 kms. However it rained -  really rained,  for 7 of the 8 km and I arrived drenched to the skin.

 I have never erected a tent in driving rain before - an experience I hope not to repeat. However it is an excellent site (7 euros) and after a well deserved hot shower I am now watching France v Ukraine in the large public space (unusual but very welcome). Who knows what tomorrow will bring - yesterday I nearly bought a sun hat!

Royan to La Rochelle

It rained all night - again!

I got up early (so I thought) to find my Basque friends of last evening having breakfast and ready to leave by 7am.
I made it by 8 and it had stopped raining.
 I had packed the tent away soaking wet but rain means no headwind doesn't it? Not this morning.
Rain and a headwind but the very busy road from Royan to Rochefort had a "bande d'urgence" which was smooth so I was able to make good progress to Rochefort where the road turned to fast dual carriageway and I was no longer welcome.
Fortunately the tourist office knew of a secret quiet way to La Rochelle where I met a really nice couple who were cycling from the Italian border to St Malo in 50km stages staying in Hotels. Between us we managed to navigate a difficult section then I left them to potter arriving in La Rochelle around 4.

 By 5 the tent was up and I was sipping a beer on the "vieux port" (gulping would be more accurate).


I was able to try out my super duper jetboil stove for the first time tonight - lardons and omelette was my first delicious effort.

I am starting to get the hang of this camping lark. Sunshine certainly helps. I met an English lady at the washing up area who let me use her waste washing up suds to wash my dishes. Such generosity!

La Rochelle to Bretignolles sur mer

Since it was supposed to be rest day I turned over when the alarm went off at 6.30 and it was 10 before I set off.
I got to within 1 km of where I wanted to go when I hit the "rocade" - ringroad. No bikes, no choice but to head 5 km back to "centre ville" and 5kms in the right direction so it was nearly noon before I was clear of La Rochelle. The Basques would have been horrified. 

I didn't have any great plans other than to see how far up the Vendee coast I could get.
Much to my surprise I caught a tail wind at last and glorious sunshine, so I made really good progress and arrived at Bretignolles sur mer at about 7 pm, having stopped for a picnic lunch, and an expensive beer on the sea front at Les Sables d' Olonne.

 I am really getting the hang of this camping lark. I got the campsite for half price and then cooked a special omelette with chorizo and olives washed down, naturally, with a nice little rose.

It was a really good day. I am looking forward to seeing if St Jean de Monts is as impressive as I remember it - it was 25 years ago!

Tuesday Bordeaux to royan

Somebody up there doesn't like me - I am convinced.
It rained all night and the t shirt I washed and hung out to dry at Raissac is still wet as is the travel towel which has never dried. It was interesting packing up in the rain but I managed to keep the dry things dryish. I realised that my luck had changed when I stopped for a coffee, shortly after I set off, to work out a route around Bordeaux As I entered the cafe I plucked up my courage and offered everyone my hand and wished them "bonjour".  The French worker who had three coffees lined up ready to drink offered to help me plot my route around bordeaux. He went to his van to get a better map and then wrote out a list of the places I should look out for. Fantastic. Thank you.


It rained all morning but when it rains there tends to be no wind so it is not all downside.. My galoshes were excellent keeping my feet warm and dry. Once out of Bordeaux I was immediately into the grand chateaux of the Medoc - names you have heard of Rothschild, Margaux etc.

The rain stopped and the wind picked up in my face again and I was starting to feel sorry for myself when I came upon a party of American cyclists on some kind of "cycling for softies " type tour. I passed them all going up a hill and when I asked them where they had started from They said it was  it was Macau (about 20kms) At the bottom of the next hill when I stopped to take a photo they were being collected in a van. It kept me going all afternoon despite a strong headwind.

When I got to the boat the relativity of it all was brought home. I met three French people of at least my age who were setting out on a forty day 4000km tour of France. We chatted on the boat and exchanged photographer duties and it became obvious that they are real cycle tourers whilst I am just playing at it.





They were very nice and admired my Brooks B17 saddle but weren't too impressed with the rest of the gear. I wished them "bonne route" and "Bon courage" which  they reciprocated and then they turned up in the same campsite about half an hour later- but I got there first by getting a map from tourist information.

Bordeaux

Bordeaux has a joined up transport system 1euro 40 gets you an hour of public transport - bus tram bus they all link.

Admittedly the tram runs down the middle of the main road but there is no need for the tourist bus just take the tram.

However there isn't that much to see - maybe it was the rain ( all day or maybe it was that I have just been to Rome ( a lot to follow) but it was nothing too special  - pleasant and interesting but nothing fantastic.

 But it is big and I have to decide whether to go through it or round it tomorrow!

Sunday to Bordeaux

Having slept like a log I awoke to a black sky and heavy rain. My fellow guests at breakfast looked at me as if I had two heads when I set off to rejoin the Canal de Deux Mers. It was eerie riding alongside the canal in pouring rain with not another soul in sight - no walkers or boaters and no other cyclists. It rained all morning and that was to be the good part of the day.

When it stopped raining the wind got up really strongly in my face. I met two Brits going the other way who helpfully said that they were glad they were not going my way against that wind. I finally ground my way to the campsite  only to find a sign saying "complet" - full. Fortunately it didn't take too much persuasion to be allowed to squeeze my tent in because I wasn't going any further!

Tomorrow will certainly be easier for it is my first rest day. I am going to explore Bordeaux on foot using public transport.