Day 1 Coquelles to Rang du Fliers

Day 1 of my grand adventure and I am up at 6.30 and ready to rock and roll. A quick look outside reveals that it is very dull and very windy and the stoic hotelier informs me with seeming glee that “le meteo” predicts rain.

Not to be deterred I proceeded to make up my water bottles carefully adding just the right “fix” of maltodextrine with a dash of electrolytes for good measure. Breakfast was fantastic value at €3 and consisted of orange juice, coffee, bread, cereal, and a compote of stewed fruit. It said “a volonte” so I took them at their word and ate my fill.
I finally set off on the great adventure at 07.45 full of hope and expectation. The good news is that the via Michelin instructions are easy to follow and that my back up map torn from the atlas was largely unnecessary. The bad news is that Via Michelin routes cyclist down such quiet roads that there are no cafes or bars or restaurants. It was 10.00 before I even passed a café and it was closed. Monday?

I finally had my first café of the trip in Samer just as the heavens opened as they had threatened to do all morning. I duly covered my panniers and bar bag with their integral yellow rain hoods which were subsequently proved to work well. It has rained all day often very heavily. The other bad news is that the Pas de Calais is not flat. The day consisted of steady climbs followed by sharp descents into the next village then another steady climb….

However I arrived in Rang du Fliers just after 13.00 wet but in good spirits."Is there somewhere inside I could leave my bike,"I asked aware that I was dripping all over the floor. "Dans la chambre , monsieur" was accompanied by a look which seemed to say "and where else would you put it."

After a nice hot shower and a trip to Intermarche for a picnic lunch (in the Mister Bed room it was raining “en cordes” - cats and dogs) I felt revived and ready to tackle a siesta.

It wasn’t the kind of first day I had pictured in my head – it is France in August, but my legs and back and neck and shoulders and wrists, held up well which hopefully bodes well for the rest of the week. The 45 miles had turned into 51 miles when I searched for a more direct route in the heavy rain.

Finally I rediscovered the fact that skin is waterproof. It was a good day. I am determined to enjoy whatever this trip throws at me.