Day 15 Valence to Orange

good to be remembered

Today was potentially an easy day - flat, wind behind, sunny but not too hot and so it turned out. I reached Montelimar in two hours or so. I had planned to stop there for a coffee but ever cafe was empty. The Route Nationale 7 skirts by most of the villages and towns along its path so I wasn't seeing much although I was making really fast progress with a huge wind behind.

However even Roman roads don't go exactly straight and whenever the wind was from the side, I found it really difficult to maintain a straight course. I decided to cross the Rhone and try the roads on the Ardeche side. The road was definitely quieter but the surface was in much poorer condition so i was happy to return to the RN 7 at Pierrelatte where I stopped for a boulangerie lunch.

A sandwich de cruditees and an enormous vanilla slice washed down with water from my water bottle. Not my best lunch so far but very enjoyable sitting in the sunshine. I was struck again by how quiet it was. Is any part of France thriving?

Onward again towards Orange which was reached uneventfully by 2.30. As I approached Orange I could see the original Arc de Triomphe which is quite spectacular. Orange looked interesting so I quickly checked into a first class hotel (hotel premiere classe) which is decidedly second class but within walking distance of the centre and with wi fi which works.

I headed for the tourist information kiosk which I had passed on the way in to pick up a map and some ideas. The girl behind the counter insisted on speaking English to me and after I had commended her on her excellent English she told me that she came from Inverness. She pointed me towards the "Theatre Ancienne" correctly assuming that that would be where I would want to start my exploration of Orange.

I have seen quite a few Roman ruins and Greek temples and Cathedrals counted on several hands but this was something special. I could tell as soon as I went in that this was a place to be fully explored and experienced to the full. The commentary on the "brick" which could tell you about the theatre in several languages was in English as opposed to translated French. It was really interesting and I was reluctant to give it back at the end. It was worth every centime of the €8 entrance fee.

impressive theatre ancienne a Orange

One thing that struck me today was how little of the countryside was under vines and how much of the Rhone valley was given over to heavy industry - chemical works and big belching chimneys as opposed to my idyllic picture of the Cote du Rhone vineyards. I am only 30 kms from Avignon. I am tempted to go dance on the bridge.(sur le pont d'Avignon on y danse)  Perhaps another time. Tomorrow I will turn SW towards Nimes. Let's hope that the Mistral has blown itself out today! (joke!)