Day 14 Valence

Day 14 Valence

I can't believe that I have been on the road for two weeks. The further south I go the greater the mix of accents and different countries of origin and the fewer Brits there are. I counted only one British registration in the car park last evening amongst several German, Spanish, Italian and of course lots of French. Although I am in Valence Nord which if it was Ryan Air could be Vienne or even Lyon it is quite conveniently placed 4 or 5 kms out, next to a huge retail park with its handy supermarket, and more or less right on the banks of the Rhone.

view from the cycle route on the banks of the rhone

Although as I have said already France is bike friendly there is a curious lack of signs around here. I stumbled upon a beautifully made "Voie verte" alongside the Rhone which goes all the way into Valence then stops suddenly alongside a factory with no signs or obvious way of reaching a road. A work in progress perhaps. Central Valence is pedestrianised which seems to be the same as bike and pedestrians only. I spent the morning cycling around the centre seeing the sights and marvelling at the slow pace of everyone and everything I came accross.

Valence was founded apparently by persecuted Armenians and seems to be populated to this day by a huge proportion of people of not obviously French origin. ( I am not sure if that is sufficiently politically correct) In my head I had a picture of Roman ruins and what I found was a little disappointing. The Cathedral of St Appolinaire was of course interesting as was the Armenian Heritage Centre. The "Penditif" one of the first monuments listed in France was so memorable that I didn't even take a photo.La maison des tetes "which marked the crossing from the high Gothic style to the Renaissance" - who could fail to be impressed?
Everything seems to be shut. Notices saying that the owners are on holiday until September abound. How much further south do I need to go go to find France open?

Something curious. LeClerc hypermarche's huge parking area full of cars on Sunday at lunchtime when the supermarket is shut. I go to investigate. The restaurant attached to the supermarket is doing a roaring trade in Sunday lunches. I ask for my first choice, moules marinieres. "Sorry sir. We are sold out." I got to my fourth choice before there was anything with any left. However I ate superbly with a 1/4l of a nice red wine for €7. The vegetables (including the chips) were "a volonte" (as much as you like) I think I might have cracked eating cheaply in France at last. Now I can understand why you would drive 4km out of town to go shopping. I can understand why you might stop to eat while you are there ( a bit more difficult but it is France) but I have a lot of difficulty with, " How do you fancy going for a nice Sunday lunch at LeClerc? If it's sunny we could sit outside and look at the factories." The French are our nearest neighbours. I love them but they are not like us.

would you have time to do that to your house?

La meteo predicts a really strong wind blowing from north to south tomorrow. I hope it is right and I might reach Orange by lunch time ( joke - it's 70 miles at least) If it blows the other way then I might be orange by lunch time! As I approach the third week I feel a mixture of excitement, as I can see the finishing line, but of regret, that my adventure is drawing to a close.

However I continue to be heartened and encouraged by your generous donations and messages of support.